Friday, December 24, 2010

XC 07/2009 KAM - Part III

As became our custom, we got off to a late start. We stock up on supplies at Alamosa, CO and head north toward some more hot water. On a whim, we took a side trip to the Great Sand Dunes National Park.

The park contains the tallest sand dunes in North America, rising about 750 feet (230 m) from the floor of the San Luis Valley on the western base of the Sangre de Cristo Range, covering about 19,000 acres. They are perhaps 12,000 years old. The dunes were formed from sand and soil deposits of the Rio Grande and its tributaries, flowing through the San Luis Valley. Over the ages, westerly winds picked up sand particles from the river flood plain. As the wind lost power before crossing the Sangre de Cristo Range, the sand was deposited on the east edge of the valley. This process continues, and the dunes are slowly growing. The wind changes the shape of the dunes daily.

There are several streams flowing on the perimeter of the dunes. The streams erode the edge of the dune field, and sand is carried downstream. The water disappears into the ground, depositing sand on the surface. Winds pick up the deposits of sand, and blow them up onto the dune field once again. Digging a few inches into the dunes even at their peaks reveals wet sand. Part of the motivation of turning the Monument into a National Park was the extra protection of the water, which Colorado's cities and agriculture covet. It is very easy to experience the dune-building process. This is a very windy region, as hikers on the Sand Dunes will attest, as on many days they will be pelted by sand and even small rocks when hiking on the dunes. The wind carries sand and rocks from many miles away.

The guys running the dunes.

After a very enjoyable (and unexpected) stop here, we head on up the road a little ways to the hot springs at the Orient Land Trust.

We arrive and after a little excitement (we had squatters in our accommodations - folks who liked our cabin better than the one they had reserved), we get settled into our digs.

After the morning spent in the sand, it was literally time to wash off the trail dust (and sand).

First stop was here at the Waterfall Pool.

This is the hottest pool on the property, heated to about 105 with electricity generated from the runoff from the springs. We are completely off the electrical grid, as all electricity is generated by this runoff turning a pelsor wheel.

This pool is about 85 degrees, a good temp for the summer.

This is the sauna, which has a neat cool plunge down below.

This is the view from the top springs, which requires a little hike up the mountain.

This is the large natural soaking pool.

We begin our hike up to the cave in at the old Orient Mine. The Orient Mine was an iron mine that began operation in the mid 1800’s and was abandoned by 1938. These are some of the old mine talilings

For the last thirty years or more it has been the summer home for a colony (estimated between 100,000 to 250,000) of Mexican free-tail bats - Tadarida Brasiliensis. It is the northernmost and largest bachelor colony known in North America. This colony of bats has been a very popular educational tool for two decades. This includes a master’s degree earned by a student who lived at the mine and studied the bats for two summers. On summer evenings, many visitors hike to the mine (about an hour walk over fairly steep terrain) to witness the out-flight. In 2002, work was completed to improve safety and access to the “glory hole” where the bats emerge.

Colorado was exceptionally green for this time of year. Much more rain than usual for this area, and we experienced a little rain on the hike up the mountain to see the bats and even got to see a really beautiful rain bow.

Our Bobcats on the hike up the mountain to see the bats.

One of the neat geological features on the hike, as well as a view of the San Luis Valley. We didn't get to see the bats come out, as a severe thunder storm forced us down the mountain before they made their appearance. Hate to depart, but it was time to hit the road again, taking the back roads, of course.

Our next stop will be the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park.

We enjoyed a nice lunch stop here.

The Black Canyon of the Gunnison's unique and spectacular landscape was formed slowly by the action of water and rock scouring down through hard Proterozoic crystalline rock.

No other canyon in North America combines the narrow opening, sheer walls, and startling depths offered by the Black Canyon of the Gunnison.

The guys on the rim.

The Black Canyon is so named on account of its steepness which makes it difficult for sunlight to penetrate very far down the canyon. As a result, the canyon walls are most often in shadow, causing the rocky walls to appear black. At its narrowest point the canyon is only 40 feet (12 m) across at the river.

The canyon has been a mighty barrier to humans. Only its rims, never the gorge, show evidence of human occupation – not even by Ute Indians living in the area since written history began.

As we leave the Black Canyon, a decision must be made: do we continue with our plans (to head across Nevada and into southern Oregon to do some camping in the Cascades) or have a mid-course change (head north to Grand Teton and Yellowstone).

Well, we decide to head north, see some neat things

and overnight in Vernal, Utah.

Thursday, December 23, 2010

XC 07/2009 KAM - Part II

We wake up in Carlsbad, New Mexico pretty late (for me that is) tired and road weary from the previous day's exertions. But after a little food and showers, we are ready for out next stop, which will be Carlsbad Caverns.

Will not provide a running commentary, just a few pics of what we saw in the caves.

















Well, we make it safely back to the surface. New Mexico looks kinda grim.

Next stop will be Roswell, but I think I was more excited about it than the boys, who had visions of hot springs dancing in their minds.

Couldn't believe the guys didn't want to hang around and visit with the locals.

We press on in search of hot water and find it Ojo Caliente. I had visited this place years ago, when it was a funky, new agey, run down oasis with lots and lots of hot water. since then some folks from Texas have purchased the place and it is all very upscale now.


Steeped in myth and legend, these ancient springs have been a gathering place and source of healing for hundreds, even thousands of years. The use of the waters can be traced back to the earliest human settlements in the region. Ancient people, believed to be the ancestors of today’s Native American Tewa tribes, built large pueblos and terraced gardens overlooking the springs. Posi or Poseuinge, “village at the place of the green bubbling hot springs” was home to thousands of people.

In the 1500’s the Spaniards, in their quest for gold and the Fountain of Youth, also discovered the Springs. One explorer’s record cites, “The greatest treasure that I found these strange people to possess, are hot springs which burst out at the foot of a mountain… so powerful are the chemicals contained in this water that the inhabitants have a belief that they were given to them by their gods. These springs I have named Ojo Caliente” (literally translated means “warm eye”, but more commonly known as “hot spring”).

In 1868, Mr. Joseph, now responsible for managing the family business, was also named the first Territorial Representative. It is at this time as well, that Mr. Joseph moved to Ojo Caliente, New Mexico, where he opened Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs as the first natural health spa in the country. Joseph’s Ojo became a hub of activity by providing overnight lodging, a Post Office, and a general store where historical ledgers show Kit Carson frequently purchased supplies.

At Ojo, Mr. Joseph built a sanitarium, which soon became known throughout the country as a place where thousands of invalids were annually cured. Many structures have been built since throughout the decades. The oldest building on record is the Co-ed Bathhouse built in the 1860s; later followed by the Historic Hotel, built in 1916, and the Adobe Round Barn in 1924. All three buildings have been lovingly restored and are listed on the National Registry of Historic Places.

The famous and the infamous have taken these waters. Volumes of testimonials filled with declarations of miracle cures abound. Whether unproven folklore or not, generations of the faithful continually make the pilgrimage back to these special waters. This remarkable combination of four different types of mineral waters: lithium, iron, soda and arsenic, over 100,000 gallons a day, still come steaming to the surface, revitalizing those who soak in these legendary waters. Pretty nice place now.

Ojo Caliente is the only hot springs in the world with a remarkable combination of four different types of mineral water: lithium, iron, soda and arsenic. Our ten pools are filled with different types and combinations of waters with temperatures ranging from 80-109 degrees.

The Lithia Spring is located at the heart of the springs. The historic pump has been dispensing this unique water since the nineteenth century. Lithium is believed to relieve depression and aid digestion. We took some of this water with us, adults only though!

The Iron Spring: A Native American legend tells that the giant rock in the iron pool guards the place where the ancient people of the mesa once received food and water during times of famine. The warm, iron-rich water bubbles up from the natural pebble floor, providing hot spots to discover in this mystical outdoor cliffside pool. Iron is considered to be beneficial to the blood and immune system.

The Soda Spring: The rock walls in the enclosed Soda ?..steam?.? pool create a soft echo providing a sense of calm and relaxation. Water from the Soda Spring is said to have been used to relieve digestive problems.

The Arsenic Spring: The arsenic water is believed to be beneficial for relief from arthritis, stomach ulcers and to heal a variety of skin conditions. Water from the iron and arsenic springs is blended in various pools throughout the property.

We sampled one of the private soaking areas. Ojo Caliente has created the perfect environment for those yearning to bathe under big blue skies by day, or on a stunning starlit night. The secluded Private Outdoor Pools come complete with kiva fireplaces so you can create your own Ojo experience. The boys became full members of the Confederation of Reformed and Presbyterian Soakers.

Can you say, aaaaaahhhhhh!





The boys burning off some energy doing a little climbing.

We took our evening meal here. It was very good. Well, time to hit the road again. We make it to Alamosa, Colorado late of an evening.